Prototype Issue
Grape Expectations: Seduced by Santa Barbara
By Judi Jordan
(page 1 of 1)We’re running late, and, thankfully, so is Amtrak. Intervention-ripe shopaholics, we dallied at Gap for wine country duds before heading at breakneck speed to Union Station.
A call to Amtrak allayed the stress. Apparently the 2:55 p.m. Pacific Surfliner to Santa Barbara was running a cushy 38 minutes late due to a track switch. Now that we had ample time to park, buy sandwiches and get cash from the in-station Wells Fargo ATM, the great race to catch our train morphed into a pleasure trip along what our Amtrak conductor described as “the longest, most beautiful stretch” of train track on the U.S. coastline.
In the business class compartment, a brassy quartet of desperate housewives drank dirty martinis and played sloppy poker. A couple of grey-haired conservatives groused about taxes, Schwarzenegger and the S.B. fog. A family played quietly with its new baby. Jim Mulrooney, the delightfully polite Amtrak conductor, enthusiastically assured us that the impending sudden beauty of the ocean was worth any delay. He was right, the unfolding wonders, miles of vineyards, ocean and fog swept us away.
As we arrived in Santa Barbara, the voltage of the vista succumbed to the subtle charm of the pristine landmark town. The red-tile roofed train station is still the original golden sand color protected by city ordinance. It’s a short nine block taxi ride to the immaculate Inn of the Spanish Garden. This whitewashed-stucco hotel is a converted enclave of artist studios, and exclusivity is ensured with only 23 well-appointed rooms—some with skylight—and cozy suites.
The hotel balances modern elegance with stylish Santa Barbara comfort; killer chocolate chip cookies flirt on a platter at the check-in desk. A luscious 2004 bottle of Santa Barbara Winery’s dry, velvety, blackberry-drenched Syrah is framed by two glasses in front of the fireplace. This hotel is a pleasure spot with edge. From the tabletop fire pits to the shagadelic Austin Powers-y oversize tub and the Italian linens, every detail is perfect. The hotel was at capacity but barely felt inhabited,
The concierge, Aaron, was ultra-helpful; our inquiry for wine country tours brought us the phenomenal Cloud Climbers Jeep tour, which includes a wine tour driver—in our case, Erik, an ex-Green Beret.
At 10 on Sunday morning we jumped into the back of the open Jeep with two other couples headed for the vines. It was foggy, it was bumpy and it was fun. Ideally, a wine tour should be more than a pretentious drinking expedition, it should bring you closer to the earth and the seasons and the art of winemaking. This is what Cloud Climbers does with aplomb. Erik is a veritable encyclopedia of wine info and trivia, a very entertaining and accommodating guide and good guy.
With Erik at the wheel, we hit five vineyards/winemakers. The smallest was Carhartt Vineyard. The Carhartt Chase the Blues Away Rose is one of my personal faves. It is world-class with hints of citrus and strawberries and perfect for summer BBQs. Owner Mike Carhartt was on hand to explain everything, including how his 2004 merlot—Carhartt Estate—complements spicy foods.
Our last stop, the most gorgeous, was the organic winery Sunstone. The setting was straight out of a Visconti movie. Lots of people hold their weddings here. We experienced the 2005 Viognier as a light but complex citrusy white, but we fell hard for the 2003 Reserve Syrah with its blue and blackberry notes over the oaky chocolate and vanilla finish. The EROS packed a wallop with cocoa, tobacco, wild cherry and curry hints. Very sophisticated, completely organic wines.
Bridlewood, “the Saddle of Sryahs,” is a former horse ranch and a magnificent sight. Roses adorning the front gates are much more than décorous, they attract all the nasty bugs that might otherwise inhabit the vines. The atmosphere is more commercial than other wineries, but one wine makes the gift shop atmosphere worth enduring; the rough yet ready Dusty Trails Syrah. Dark, dirty and delicious, with aromatic spices and earthy accents, this tannin and smoky oak laced blend demands to partner a mesquite grilled steak or curry.
Artiste Winery has a unique gimmick: all of its blends are created to reflect and harmonize with the artistic labels. The store is an artist gallery and a must-see.
Carina Cellars has a nonpretentious, open store environment and a unique presentation that pairs wine with cheeses. The impressive 2005 Grenache, Central Coast’s big nose is scented with vanilla, rose and blood oranges and mingles particularly well with a Swiss Gruyere. The killer 2005 Syrah 7 Percent is explosive, operatic, rich and round. Sage, raspberry, violets and anise dance with pomegranate and much more. A Piave cheese (hard Italian) is a worthy complement.
A bumpy road and cooling temperatures made the ride back in the jeep more challenging. Still, we were sorry to leave. That’s the mark of a perfect weekend, when home seems like just another destination. With promises to return for the stomping of the grapes, we have another weekend in Santa Barbara on the agenda, via the A-train.
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