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Neighborhood Life: Western Heights in West Adams

By Dianne V. Lawrence
(page 1 of 2)

Western Heights is bordered by Washington Blvd. on the north, the Santa Monica Freeway on the south, Arlington on the west and Western on the east. It is three blocks long from east to west and two blocks long from south to north, three freeway exits from downtown Los Angeles.

Roots At the turn of the 20th century the rich and famous (the Dohenys, Fatty Arbuckle, Theda Bara and Busby Berkeley to name a few) moved away from the bustling downtown scene and created the wealthy suburb of West Adams. By the mid ’20s, with the city encroaching, the wealthy began migrating farther west into Beverly Hills. The Depression presented the final insult, and many denizens lost their gorgeous huge homes to banks or were forced to cut them up into rooming houses.

When the Santa Monica Freeway cut through West Adams in the ’60s, dividing it in two, (Washington Blvd. on the north and Adams on the south) Western Heights was created. Although the freeway destroyed many of the grander estates the area still boasts large two- and three-floor homes, wide streets and big lots.

History During the ’40s the area became a battleground for integrated housing, with film stars such as Louise Beavers and Hattie McDaniel fighting for and winning the right to buy homes. Carolyn Schifflet, a resident African American senior citizen whose family took part in the successful fight to outlaw racial covenants in real estate, still lives in the house her family bought during that time.

Fundamentals

How to Get There From Hollywood: Take Wilton south, it becomes Arlington. Turn left at Washington, right at Gramercy. From the Santa Monica Freeway: Exit at either Western or Arlington and go north to Washington. Turn right if coming off Arlington or left if coming off Western. Go to Gramercy and turn south into the neighborhood. From South of the Santa Monica Freeway North or Arlington to Adams. Right to Gramercy and then left. Over the Freeway bridge and you are in the neighborhood.

Crime Stats Averages 12 crimes over a three-month period, mostly car break-ins, domestic violence, occasional property break-in.

Historical Sites

The South Seas House Built in 1903 Corner of Arlington and 24th St. The South Seas House is one of the area’s original houses. It is built in a unique Polynesian style reputedly influenced by the original owner’s friendship with Gauguin. An early photograph of the house depicts it set in a sparse desert landscape.

William Andrews Clark Memorial Library Center for 17th & 18th Century Studies Cimarron and Adams www.humnet.ucla.edu/humnet/clarklib/default.htm The Clarke Library, built in 1924–26, is one of the oldest of UCLA’s 12 libraries. It houses one of the largest rare book and manuscript libraries in the United States, with particular strengths in English literature and history (1641-1800), Oscar Wilde and fine printing. Situated within beautiful gardens and amid statuary the library is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 4:45 p.m., usual holidays excepted. No appointment is necessary but you will need a photo ID to register.

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Famous Spots The place where singing legend Marvin Gaye was shot is located in a large craftsman house next to the freeway and affectionately referred to among neighborhood residents as the “Marvin Gaye House.”

The house façade for “Six Feet Under” is located on Arlington south of the 10 Freeway.

Parks, Cool hikes, Dog hikes: Kenneth Hahn Park. La Cienega, south of Rodeo Road. Amazing hikes, views of the ocean and downtown LA, a fishing pond, picnic areas, a small stream. Dogs are permitted on leash.

Hangouts Coffee Houses The Coffee House culture has not found its way into this neighborhood. The gentrification of the area has not been supported with attendant cool restaurants and coffee hangouts. Yet.

Restaurants For local eating it’s mostly mcfastfood quality, with a few exceptions. Chabalita’s owns the corner of 21st and Western just north off the Santa Monica Freeway. With its 24-hour Mexican take-out, its seafood wagon with the best seafood tacos and its great seafood restaurant, it enjoys ’round-the-clock patronage. On Washington just west of Arlington is one of the oldest Jamaican restaurants in Los Angeles, Natraliart, 3426 W. Washington Blvd, 323-732-8865. It has lasted because the food is hearty and authentic. There are several great family-run restaurants featuring food from and catering to the local Salvadorian community. Restaurante Hermano 1905 8th St., a small joint in the corner mall on Washington and 8th, serves amazingly sophisticated dishes. French bread stuffed with hen, fresh empanadas made from fried plantains stuffed with a sweet crème and delicious baby corn tamales with sour crème. Entrées are never more than $7.50. El Porvenir, 2273 W. Washington Blvd serves up fresh juices, in-house fresh-baked goods and flavorful meat dishes.

Two of the neighborhood’s best features are a balanced mix of new and old families and an easy truce between the varieties of cultures and middle, upper and lower incomes.

Shopping,/b> Most of the shopping is relegated to four corner malls with a few larger strip malls all located within walking distance. They are filled with the typical lineup of one large grocery chain store, a Sav-On, a bargain shoe shop, video stores, etc. For anything more sophisticated it’s a 15-minute drive to Larchmont Ave. or a hop on the freeway to Culver City.

Real Estate As seniors citizens pass on, the large two- and three-floor Craftsman estates and smaller cottages are being sold to mostly younger couples, gay and straight. The neighborhood has a healthy mix of black, Hispanic, Caucasian, and more recently, Asian families. But prices are mushrooming. A rundown three-floor house that sold for $250K-$350K in the mid-’90s now goes for up to and above $900k restored.

Although most are family homes, a few rental units are available. Some are four-plexes built in the ’20s and ’30s, and some rental units remain in the houses that were altered by the Depression. Rental rates vary based on whether the buildings are owned by old families (low) or have newer owners (high). But a bargain can still be had.

Close proximity to the 10 Freeway and to the expanding downtown culture, the lack of many rooming houses or apartment buildings and the strong community spirit makes the area an ideal location and a stable family environment. Two of its best features are a balanced mix of new and old families and an easy truce between the varieties of cultures and middle, upper and lower incomes.

Architectural Style Although the area is famous for its Craftsman style and Tudor-revival (Tudor-influenced Craftsman) the neighborhood also includes Spanish Revival, Mediterranean, Queen Anne cottages and Colonial Revival homes. Some of the architects include Myron Hunt, Paul R. Williams, Sumner Hunt, and Frank M. Tyler.

Issues As a result of the installation of street barriers a serious division has erupted within the community. Designed to block incoming traffic from the surrounding busy streets, the proponents claim the barriers provide safe streets, represent the will of the people and have the support of their councilman. The anti-barrier side (which includes the neighborhood fire station) protests the behind-the-scenes handshaking that allowed the barriers to be installed without adequate process or oversight. This resulted in the installation of a full barrier right next to the neighborhood fire station, hindering the station’s instant life-saving emergency access to the surrounding neighborhood.

Schools 24th St. Elementary Grades: K-5 24th St. Early Education 2055 W. 24th St. 36th St. 6th Avenue Early Education Grades: K-5 6th Avenue Elementary Grades: K-5 Bright Elementary Celerity Nascent Charter Community Harvest Charter Grades: 6-12 Foshay Learning Center Grades: K-12 Los Angeles Tech Center Mid-City Magnet Grades: K- 8 Widney High School Grades: 7-12

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